MFW – Les Copains Spring Summer 2018 is about simplicity and purity

Multiple references appear indirectly in the Les Copains collection for Spring/Summer 2018, a mixture of inspirations and passions. Motifs from a cross-fertilised folk aesthetic translate into light, contemporary, urban clothes.

An abstract, bohemian Mexico described through the use of brilliant colors, such as fuchsia and red, which are unexpectedly matched with pastel and natural shades from flesh pink to aqua. A nod to the architecture of Louis Barragan.

Scenarios where simplicity and purity alternate, however, with a sophisticated, elaborate decoration, thus evoking, in a subtle, discreet way, traditional clothes and finely-crafted  jewels of semiprecious stones and metals. Chiffon and silk organza pleats embraced by the geometry of knitted tops in textured patterns; cross-stitch-embroidered two-tone bands outline the volumes of silk/cotton muslin tunics, while radiant tattoo embroidery the body. 

A style of femininity that is not idealised but complex and varied, where touches of eccentricity are seen in the free and easy use of accessories, male boots, bows and hats; in the nonchalance with which elegant looks alternate with sporty, easy outfits.

Fine-tuning contrasts is the key to a completely new expression in which stencils of floral sprays suddenly appear to embellish casual organza skirts and trench coats; perimeters of long, floaty georgette and silk chiffon dresses acquire an even lighter air through lace-effect inlaid embroidery, or through knitted geometric tribal decorations matched with macro fil coupé articles with exaggerated volumes.

The memory of Millicent Rogers’s originality and imaginativeness seems to unite with the sport-chic attitude of the brand’s history. Bib-and-braces dresses, flared skirts and work overalls are reworked, enlivened with seersucker stripes and maxi leather-and-cord braces, or sophisticatedly reinvented through the use of denim and muslin weaves creating total looks worthy of evening wear.

The sea and life on a boat drive the spirit of the summer style. This introduces sailor trousers to the wardrobe as well as openwork knitted bodies, softly-styled tunics and kaftans with exquisite details, mini Bermuda shorts with visible buttons as a foil for the simplicity of the lighter blouses.

The experimental use of tulle creates a series of flounce effects on flared skirts, and pleated micro bustiers with a jabot in, occasionally, a contrasting color. Delicately colored tapes used for knitted weaves to edge printed dresses.

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