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Milan FW – Wunderkind Fall Winter 2017/18

“While it is cold outside and the world seems to be instable, we are dreaming of coming home. I see people dressed for the outside on their way to the inside. It’s more an emotional than a physical movement. The idea of luxury is flexible and can also be an extraordinary normality – a protection from mediocracy.” Wolfgang Joop

WUNDERKIND imagines an intimate armor, carnally private and absolutely functional, for a woman walking on flat shoes, hood on her head, hands in the pockets, with the ease of her independent layering. There is a strong personality in the choice of male elements that emphasize an emancipated femininity in the mix of military and grunge elements and in the focus on sartorial jackets.

Structured blazers are the protagonists, even at night, when lights come up paying homage to the glamorous world of jazz, worn in contrast to deconstructed dresses, which are converted by drawstrings in length and width. Big double-layered coats and masculine jackets contrast the sensuality of skirts, easy to open: pulling down the zip or flaring the metal buttons that embroider the garments. A punk malice crosses the soft atmosphere, of a robe du chambre collection, where sophisticated volumes of mohair, silk velvet and wool play with techno fabrics. Irregular drawstring skirts can be lengthened and shortened. Some others are attached with press buttons to chemise dresses. Tight neoprene, loose & low waisted or totally sporty-zipped pants are looking for their jackets. A decent colour palette – blue, red, olive green, touches of black, pink and plum flashes – brand the collection and the exclusive prints.

The WUNDERKIND Japanese cherry blossoms are spread on velvet, chiffon and neoprene. An unexpected camouflage turns chromatically to hide a military private garden. According to Wolfgang Joop’s artistic vision an elaborate checked patchwork refers to a Japanese landscape. The origami technique for metallic fabrics and the cherry blossoms symbolize, within their endless replicability, the infinity of the universe, rebirth and spring awakening.

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