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Milan FW – Daizy Shely Fall Winter 2016/17

”Though the sex to which I belong is considered weak,

you will nevertheless find me a rock that bends to no wind.”

-Elizabeth I

The woman inspiring Daizy Shely for the Fall/Winter 2017 collection is strong and independent. Energetic and confident, she loves her imperfections, flirts with her body and plays with her sexuality.

She dislikes clichés and gender stereotypes: her versatile and vaguely ambiguous wardrobe lets her glide from night to day without boundaries or inhibitions. Contrasts and apparent contradictions are the leitmotiv of the collection appearing on the catwalk.

Severe high-waisted menswear trousers are worn under sensuous, impalpable forties-style fil coupé dressing gowns with voided velvet and lurex embroideries.

Ultra-feminine babydoll dresses borrowed from lingerie casually peek out from under sleek classic wool coats or bomber jackets with marabou collars.

The black jumpsuit that hugs the body and emphasizes curves bares the shoulders and features details on the bodice resembling the lapels on menswear blazers. The high-waisted skirt with thigh-high slit is worn with a corset inspired by the wardrobe of Queen Elizabeth I, the emblem of a strong, resolute woman.

Ruffs and tiny ruching adorn jackets and dresses. Ruffles and pastel colors found throughout the collection pay homage to the iconic 16th century queen.   

Day and night overlap without distinct boundaries also in the use of fabrics, which are the result of meticulous research and are combined in an unexpected way. The casual coat made of bulky cable-stitch wool with an unusual texture becomes alluringly sophisticated due to the marabou collar. The romantic dusty blue Chantilly lace dress is “sullied” by a vaguely S&M black ribbon.  A lurex thread is added to classic eye let lace to make it more wintry and luxurious. The cropped jacket resembling shearling is actually made of gathered ostrich feathers.

Large-weave fishnet stockings and sleek black hats are inspired by the ambiguous and sensuous Catherine Deneuve in the 1980’s movie “The Hunger”, from which is taken the soundtrack of the show.

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