KIRU & MONO
Yumi KATSURA has an obsession, like any passionate artist, with the kimono… The
masterpiece is the blank page that she reinvents through the seasons to go beyond
the kiru and the mono, literally the thing that one wears on oneself…
Japanese traditional clothing finds other meanings for the woman who wears it…
Yumi KATSURA performs her “sampling”, re-defines and re-shapes rectangles of folded and sewn fabrics, but never cuts them…
From this tradition that would prefer only straight lines, she merges its sense of
volume and line to transform the garment and give it a new identity… The kimono
can become the day dress with an oriental touch so dear to Paul Poiret, the coat-
flower-cocoon that no longer falls to the feet or ankles in a seventies vibration, but
will play on the right length to accompany women in their own time…
FURISODE
The style of Yumi KATSURA signs its difference by a set of unique sleeves grafted on
to her proposals for clothing… This deliberately stretched sleeve is a tribute to
young women, named Furisode… As a protective cover, the left side closes on to the
right side… Originally, it made it possible to hide the tantō, but the only weapon
Yumi KATSURA needs is seduction… Her woman, in the spotlight, declares herself
strong, free and modern in tune with the times, culture and nature…
ITO JAKUCHU
There are these all over prints, inspired by Japanese nature and more graphic
designs like cherry blossoms, pine trees bending in a melancholy breeze, bamboo
that does not bend, pop floral designs… Calligraphy is transposed to the textile
fibre, and down to the skin by trompe-l’oeil embroidery… From needle and thread,
evening dresses tell a magical story and become living pictures… A swallow
escaping from its nest announces spring… The delicate balance of Yumi KATSURA is
to build a bridge between East and West… Trained at the prestigious École de la
Chambre Syndicale de La Couture Parisienne, she rummages through the drawers of
a Parisian dressing room to find new items for a Japanese collection plan… Or is it
the other way around… Sun pleats, silk, jacquard, lace, cold wool gabardine become
canvases sublimating the masterpieces of Ito Jakuchu and shine millions of stars in
our eyes…
PERFECTION & ABSOLUTE
Yumi KATSURA re-encodes the form of the wide belt tied in the back, called an ‘obi’.
YUZEN, an ancient dyeing technique for silk used for making traditional kimonos, is
transposed to an evening dress with a breathing, swelling skirt… Another gold
sheath dress with the stunning train uses the same technique, with embroidery and a
peacock feather evoking the quetzal, the bird of fire… The necklines are not too low
and the transparencies are restrained, to keep a chic and stylish status… The colour
range is an impressionistic palette made up of a glass of water, a blue wash, a water
lily pink, a red kiss, a liquid gold… Turbans and head coverings, the eyes of
mannequins hidden behind acid-coloured glasses are an iconic tribute to Yumi
KATSURA…
WALK IN A JAPANESE GARDEN
This journey which starts out in Paris for the Spring-Summer 2017 Couture highlights
Japanese arts and crafts. The invitation whispers to us that beautiful women will find
nomadic and urban knights to accompany them… The all over prints on shirts and
silk liquettes are worn with cigarette pants while jackets announce a season under tension… Samurais of an urban jungle, neo-romantic lovers, with a simple smoky
look, the messengers will affirm that the love of tradition rhymes with uncompromising modernism… .