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ParisFW – Yumi Katsura S/S 2017 Haute Couture

KIRU & MONO 

Yumi  KATSURA  has  an  obsession,  like  any  passionate  artist,  with  the  kimono…  The

masterpiece is the blank page that she reinvents through the seasons to go beyond

the  kiru  and  the  mono,  literally  the  thing  that  one  wears  on  oneself…

  Japanese  traditional  clothing  finds  other  meanings  for  the  woman  who  wears it… 

Yumi KATSURA  performs  her  “sampling”,  re-defines  and  re-shapes  rectangles  of  folded  and sewn fabrics, but never cuts them… 

From  this  tradition  that  would  prefer  only  straight  lines,  she  merges  its  sense  of

volume  and  line  to  transform  the  garment  and  give  it  a  new  identity…  The  kimono

can  become  the  day  dress  with  an  oriental  touch  so  dear  to  Paul  Poiret,  the  coat-

flower-cocoon that no longer falls to the feet or ankles in a seventies vibration, but

will play on the right length to accompany women in their own time…

FURISODE

The style of Yumi KATSURA signs its difference by a set of unique sleeves grafted on

to  her  proposals  for  clothing…  This  deliberately  stretched  sleeve  is  a  tribute  to

young women, named Furisode… As a protective cover, the left side closes on to the

right  side…  Originally,  it  made  it  possible  to  hide  the  tantō,  but  the  only  weapon

Yumi  KATSURA  needs  is  seduction…  Her  woman,  in  the  spotlight,  declares  herself

strong, free and modern in tune with the times, culture and nature…

ITO JAKUCHU 

There  are  these  all  over  prints,  inspired  by  Japanese  nature  and  more  graphic

designs  like  cherry  blossoms,  pine  trees  bending  in  a  melancholy  breeze,  bamboo

that  does  not  bend,  pop  floral  designs…  Calligraphy  is  transposed  to  the  textile

fibre, and down to the skin by trompe-l’oeil embroidery… From needle and thread,

evening  dresses  tell  a  magical  story  and  become  living  pictures…  A  swallow

escaping from its nest announces spring… The delicate balance of Yumi KATSURA is

to  build  a  bridge  between  East  and  West…  Trained  at  the  prestigious  École  de  la

Chambre Syndicale de La Couture Parisienne, she rummages through the drawers of

a  Parisian  dressing  room  to  find  new  items  for  a  Japanese  collection  plan…  Or  is  it

the other way around… Sun pleats, silk, jacquard, lace, cold wool gabardine become

canvases  sublimating  the  masterpieces  of  Ito  Jakuchu  and  shine  millions  of  stars  in

our eyes…

PERFECTION & ABSOLUTE

Yumi KATSURA re-encodes the form of the wide belt tied in the back, called an ‘obi’. 

YUZEN, an ancient dyeing technique for silk used for making traditional kimonos, is

transposed  to  an  evening  dress  with  a  breathing,  swelling  skirt…  Another  gold

sheath dress with the stunning train uses the same technique, with embroidery and a

peacock feather evoking the quetzal, the bird of fire…  The necklines are not too low

and the transparencies are restrained, to keep a chic and stylish status… The colour

range is an impressionistic palette made up of a glass of water, a blue wash, a water

lily  pink,  a  red  kiss,  a  liquid  gold…  Turbans  and  head  coverings,  the  eyes  of

mannequins  hidden  behind  acid-coloured  glasses  are  an  iconic  tribute  to  Yumi

KATSURA…

WALK IN A JAPANESE GARDEN

This journey which starts out in Paris for the Spring-Summer 2017 Couture highlights

Japanese arts and crafts. The invitation whispers to us that beautiful women will find

nomadic  and  urban  knights  to  accompany  them…  The  all  over  prints  on  shirts  and

silk  liquettes  are  worn  with  cigarette  pants  while  jackets announce  a  season  under tension…  Samurais  of  an  urban  jungle,  neo-romantic  lovers,  with  a  simple  smoky

look,   the   messengers   will   affirm   that   the   love   of   tradition   rhymes   with uncompromising modernism… .

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